Thursday, 10 April 2014

Download Circuit Theory Self Learning Books in PDF

Electronic Devices and Circuit Theory 7th Edition


A new edition of this highly-successful text! As it has for the past quarter-century, Electronic Devices and Circuit Theory offers students a complete and comprehensive study of the electronic devices and circuits they need to understand for success on the job. The authors take a systems approach to their subject, covering topics in a "building block" fashion that ensures students comprehend fundamental concepts such as diodes and transistors before they tackle such advanced topics as compound configurations, power supplies, and oscilloscopes. For each device examined, the text covers most configurations and applications. Included are discussions of the full range of related topics typically addressed in the course, with clear, precise explanations and plenty of examples to back them up. A color format highlights and defines important concepts, while line drawings present circuits and devices as they appear in the "real world."



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How To Make Corrupt USB Jump Drives Work Again

There you are, at your friend’s house. You’re all gathered around the computer to watch a funny video. But then something happens. A virus pops up and gives you the digital bird. “No problem,” you say, “since I’m a geek, I’ve got antivirus software on my USB stick.” Now you’re the hero. Now you and your mates can watch that guy get the football in the groin…again. You pop your thumb drive into the USB port and – nothing. Back to zero, hero!

Unless, of course, you know how to fix that too.

There are a few causes for this sort of thing happening. So I’ll take you from most likely and easiest method to make corrupt USB jump drives work, to the least likely and still pretty easy way.


Two Drives With the Same Drive Letter

Typically, a computer will assign either the E, F, or G drive letter to your jump drive when you plug it in. Normally, if one of those drive letters is already in use, a different one will get assigned. So let’s say you have a backup drive set at drive letter E:. Then your jump drive should get assigned F: or G:. But sometimes, that just doesn’t happen and that can cause USB jump drives to not work.

Here’s how you fix that. My instructions are for Windows XP, since I like to kick it like it’s 2003. Click on the Start menu, then right-click on My Computer. From there, click on Manage, because we will manage.


Now the Computer Management window opens. Click on the Disk Management option. In the right-hand window, you’ll see all attached drives listed. The U3 drive is my USB key. Currently, it’s not conflicting with anything, but it will do for this demonstration.


Right-click on the drive that you want to change the drive letter on. Then click on Change Drive Letter and Paths.


Now you can click on the Change button.

Then select a new drive letter. I chose G for Guy. Isn’t that cute?

Windows will ask you to confirm that this is what you want to do. I’d click Yes, but that’s just me.

As you’ll be able to see in the window showing all the drives, the drive letter is, indeed, changed to G:. Whut up G?! Now your USB drive should not conflict with any other drive.


That didn’t fix the problem? Hmm….well, maybe your USB drive is actually corrupted somehow. Let’s take a look at fixing that – there are still a few ways to make corrupt USB jump drives work.
Error Checking

Window’s Error Checking utility can be used on USB drives. To access it, open up Windows Explorer. (Here’s a shortcut tip – hold down your Windows Key and press the E key to quickly open Window’s Explorer.)

Once you are in Window’s Explorer, right-click on the USB disk you’re having problems with. Then go down and click on Properties.


Once the Properties window opens, click on the Tools tab. This is where the Error-checkingsoftware can be accessed from. Click on the Check Now… button.


I advise checking the box for Automatically fix file system errors. What that will do is, well, fix any file system errors automatically. Yeah, that was a brilliant explanation. Just click on Start.


Lookit! It’s scaaaaaaaaaaning!

The scan doesn’t take very long at all. You guessed it, click the OK button.

My USB thumb drive is 8GB in capacity and it was done in a matter of seconds. If it takes longer than that, perhaps your drive’s problem is somewhat more serious.

You can also do a similar test and repair with third-party disk repair tools out there.
Format the USB Drive

Well, this step doesn’t really help you get at the files you want, but it will restore the file structure so that it doesn’t happen next time.

Warning: Formatting the USB drive will ERASE all the files on your hard drive.

Go into Window’s Explorer again. Right-click on the USB drive you wish to format, and then click on Format….


Once the Format window opens, you have a few choices to make. First, choose what type of File system you want. This is a matter of personal choice. You can choose FAT or FAT32, and with some fiddling around elsewhere in your computer, you could choose NTFS. That may be an article for another day.

You can also set the Volume label. Perhaps you want to customize it and call it ‘My Toolbox’ or something like that.

Then you can choose to either do a Quick Format or not. With something like this, I don’t think it matters if it is done with a quick format or not. Meh…click the Start button.


Now, jump out of your chair, point at your monitor and scream, “It’s formaaaaaaaaaaaating!!!!!!”as though you were Robert Thorn in Soylent Green when he figured out what Soylent Green really was. You don’t have to do that part, but if you do, let me know how fast your Sys. Admin loses his mind thinking you formatted something important.

Well, that makes the next part a little anticlimactic. Just click OK, and put the files you want on to the USB drive.


There are a few more things that could be done, that are a little more complex and beyond the scope of this article. However, it involves messing around with drivers or data recovery software. If there’s enough interest, maybe we can do a follow-up to this article. Anyone?

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How To Format A Write Protected USB Flash Drive



32GB of sweet USB flash drive storage space just sits in your office drawer, ironically taking up space. Why? Because you can’t put anything else on it. It’s write protected and you can’t format the stupid thing! Or can you? We get a lot of people asking about formatting write protected USB flash drives.

First, make sure this is what you need to do. Are you sure you don’t just have a dead USB port? Maybe it’s just that your flash drive is corrupted?

We’re going to get to the bottom of this problem and either you’ll be stashing all your fresh Firefly fan fiction on that drive, so the boss doesn’t see it, or you’re going to be doing the Office Space dance on it in the parking lot. It’s one or the other today, baby! Let’s go.

First things first – can you remove the write protection? Let’s assume you’ve followed all the steps in our article on fixing write protection errors on a USB pen drive. There’s still one thing we can try that was the victim of oversight in that article.
Remove Write Protection With Diskpart Command Line Utility

Click on your Start Menu and type cmd in the Search for programs and files field. It should show up at the top of your Start menu. Right-click on it and select Run as Administrator.


You should now see the Command Line Utility, which looks like the following.


Type in the command DISKPART and hit Enter. Diskpart is a disk-partitioning tool that is built into Windows and is accessible through the Command Line Utility. With it, we can change the values associated with your USB drive.


Now type LIST DISK and hit Enter. You should see a table something like the one below. It shows two disks being available: the Hard Disk Drive (HDD) as Disk 0, and the USB flash drive as Disk 1. We know that the USB flash drive is Disk 1 because it is much smaller than Disk 0 at only 7441 MB versus 298 GB. Be very careful from here on out! You can see that if you start working with the wrong disk, things can get ugly quicker than when the lights come on at last call.

At this point, type SELECT DISK 1 and hit Enter. You’ll be rewarded with the knowledge that Disk 1 is now the selected disk. Type in ATTRIBUTES DISK, and Diskpart will tell you what you want to know about your flash drive. Most important is the first line Current Read-only State: Yes. This lets us know that, indeed, the flash drive is write protected.

To remove the write protection with Diskpart, type the command ATTRIBUTES DISK CLEAR READONLY. If it works, that will be confirmed by the line Disk attributes cleared successfully.


Double-check this by trying to copy a small file to your USB drive. If it works, great. If you still get the write-protect error, it’s time to bring out the big guns. Software utilities.
Disk Formatting Test Method

The test bed for these utilities is a Windows 7 computer with a Kingston DataTraveler DT101 G2 8GB USB 2.0 drive.

Before each test, the drive has a test file placed on it and the drive is write protected via the Diskpart tool. The USB drive is then removed from the computer and reinserted. This ensures that the computer is reading the most recent attributes. Skipping this step sometimes results in Windows Explorer not being able to see the drive.

The USB drive attributes are checked in Diskpart and an attempt is made to copy another test file to the USB drive. If the copy fails then it can be safely assumed that the write protection is working.

The formatting utility is then run on the test drive. If it ends with a success screen, then the USB drive is checked in Windows Explorer to see if the test file is still there. If the test file is gone, the utility is declared to have formatted the USB drive successful.

To see if the formatting removed the write protection, an attempt is made to copy the test file to the USB drive. If the file copies successfully, the write protection has been removed. If not, then the drive attributes are checked via the Diskpart tool to see if the drive is still write protected, and accessible by the computer.

We’ll only talk about the utilities that did work on this particular drive. Other formatting and USB drive utilities may work on your drive, especially if it is something provided by the maker of your drive. If the maker’s utility doesn’t work for you, consider going to the place where you bought it or contacting the maker. Many of them offer repair or replacement services.
USB Formatting Utilities

The Apacer USB 3.0 Repair tool has two functions – format and and restore. It’s no-frills.


As you can imagine, format is intended to format the USB drive and restore is meant to make your USB flash drive work again. How the restore function works is by performing a low level format. That completely wipes your USB drive and restores it back to its factory default values.


The format did work on the test drive, however the write protection was still intact. The restore function also formatted the flash drive and renamed it PUBLIC, but still the write protection was intact.


If neither of these functions works on your Apacer USB drive, Apacer does have a statement on their website asking you to contact, “…the authorized Apacer dealer or distributor that you original purchased the product to get replacement, if the flash drive still can not be repaired.”


As soon as the software was started, it identified the drive, and it’s current file system.


Very quickly, it worked, but still left the flash drive write protected. Like the Apacer tool, it changed the name of the drive as well, but to Kingston instead of Public. It wasn’t terribly surprising that it worked, with the test drive being a Kingston product.
The Takeaway

These two programs were the only ones that worked on formatting test drive, so they very well may work on your drive. However, the programs did not remove the write protection, which was what we really wanted to happen.

As was noted before, check the website of your USB flash drive manufacturer to see if they have a program that might help you, or a repair or replacement service. Remember to try all the steps mentioned in the fixing write protection errors on a USB pen drive article as well as the instructions for changing attributes in Diskpart. If all of that doesn’t work, you might want to put on your stomping boots, do the Office Space dance on it, and head down to your local retailer to get a new one.

If you’ve found another way to format a write protected flash drive and remove the write protection, we’d love to read about it in the comments. After all, we’re all in this together.
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Saturday, 5 April 2014

Change your Windows XP Service Pack 2 to Service Pack 3


Are you using Windows XP SP2? but cannot install some apps and requiring you to upgrade to SP3? Now this is one of the best solution you can find in this blog. I made a tutorial about changing your windows xp service pack 2 to service pack 3. Note that it will only change the name from Service Pack 2 to Service Pack 3 to bypass whatever software requiring you to install or upgrade Service Pack 3, and probably may cause future problems.

Below are the simple steps.

Step 1: Run Regedit by Clicking on Start -> Run , type in regedit and press enter

Alternatively you can just press Ctrl + R and type regedit

(Optional) Step 2: Make a backup of your registry (just in case) using system restoration wizard.

Step 3: Browse to "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\ CurrentControlSet\ Control\ Windows"

Step 4: Modify the value of "CSDVersion" from "200" (SP2) to the Windows XP SP3 value of "300"

Step 5: Close registry editor

Step 6: Reboot

Hope It Helps!!!

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Friday, 4 April 2014

How to Troubleshoot Problems in Windows 8.1

Today’s article is a quick tip on how to troubleshoot problems in Windows 8.1, which you will most definitely run into using Microsoft’s shiny new OS. However, most problems don’t require booting into safe mode or following a 10 step guide to fixing WiFi problems.

Microsoft has also gotten smarter and included a lot of tools and help guides in the OS itself to diagnose and fix problems. I’ve found that teaching my clients how to use these built-in tools saves me a lot of time because they are able to fix problems in Windows 8.1 themselves. In this article, I’m going to talk about the built-in Windows 8.1 troubleshooters that can help you fix common problems.
Windows 8.1 Troubleshooters

Before I show you some of the troubleshooters, let’s see how to get to them in Windows 8.1. First, open the Charms bar by pressing Windows key + C or moving your mouse to the upper or lower right of your screen. Click on Search and then type in troubleshooting in the search box.


Click on the first result, Troubleshooting, and the main window will pop up where you can start troubleshooting computer programs. The main interface is broken down into categories like Programs, Hardware and Sound, Network and Internet and System and Security.


You can either choose from the list that is shown or you can click the View all link at the top left. I tend to click on that just so I can see all the options.


As you can see, there are quite a few troubleshooters. You can fix problems with a homegroup, troubleshoot Internet connection issues, check the configuration of your network adapters, get help with printing problems, fix sound issues, fix Windows Updates problems and lots more. If you click on one of the troubleshooters, you’ll get a pop up dialog like below:


All of them will have a little Advanced button at the bottom, which you want to click on to see more options. It’s a good idea to keep the Apply repairs automatically checked and to click the Run as administrator link. Running the troubleshooter as an Administrator will allow windows to find more possible issues. When you click Next, the troubleshooter will start trying to detect any issues. For example, when I ran the Printer troubleshooter, it checked the spool service for errors and gave me a list of printers to see which one I was having trouble with.


Before Windows 7, these troubleshooters were pretty useless and didn’t do much of anything. However, starting with Windows 7 and definitely more so in Windows 8, they can actually fix a wide range of issues without any user input. If there is an issue detected, the troubleshooter will attempt to repair the problem by itself. Most of the time this works, unless it’s a serious problem. On one Windows 8.1 computer, I had some Windows Update issues that were fixed by the troubleshooter:


You can click on View detailed information to see exactly what issue was detected and fixed. In my case, it looked like one of the components for Windows Update was configured incorrectly.

That’s about it! Using the troubleshooters built into Windows 8.1 is always a good first step. If the troubleshooter doesn’t work, it’s time to start Googling around for a solution, but hopefully you won’t have too. Enjoy!

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Ultimate Windows 8 WiFi Troubleshooting Guide

If you’re running Windows 8 or recently upgraded, you might have run into some frustrating WiFi issues. Windows 8 is inherently a different beast than previous versions of Windows and with it comes a new set of problems. I never encountered too many wireless problems in Windows 7, but have run into several with Windows 8.

In this article, we’ll go through a couple of the most common problems with WiFi connections in Windows 8 and how to troubleshoot them. Most of the problems occur with those computers that got upgraded from Windows XP or Windows 7 to Windows 8. Either the driver is out of date or the adapter gets disabled or something odd like that. Let’s get started.

Limited Connectivity Message

If you’re getting that annoying limited connectivity message in your task bar in Windows 8, it’s really hard to tell what the problem is. You basically just have to try a couple of things and hope one works. The cause could be anything from the network adapter to the wireless router to a bad network cable. I’m only going to mention a few of the major reasons here, but scroll down to the Other Troubleshooting Tips section if none of these fix your problem.

Method 1 – Troubleshooter

The first thing you can try is to run a couple of the network troubleshooters built into Windows 8. A lot of the time, it can solve your wireless or Internet problem for you. To open the troubleshooter, open the search charm and type in troubleshooting. Then click on Troubleshooting, the first option.


Now you want to click on Network and Internet.


Finally, you will see the different troubleshooters available for fixing wireless and Internet problems. The ones you will want to run are Internet Connections and Network Adapter.


Method 2 – Reset TCP/IP in Windows 8

You might also get a message like this when running the troubleshooter:

WiFi does not have a valid ip configuration

In this case, you can reset the TCP/IP stack and Winsock and see if that works. To do this, again open the search charm and type in command prompt. On the first listing, right-click and choose Run as Administrator.


At the command prompt, type in the following two commands, one at a time and make sure to press Enter after each one:netsh winsock reset catalog
netsh int ip reset c:\resetlog.txt



Hopefully, your wireless connection is working at this point. If not, skip down to the bottom section which has more troubleshooting tips.
WiFi is Disabled or Greyed Out

in one odd case, I had a Surface tablet where the wireless was disabled and I could not even enable it. For some odd reason, the On/Off toggle switch for Wireless Devices was greyed out like below:


The first thing you can do is try to diagnose the connection. To do this, open Network and Sharing Center. You can simply right-click on the network icon in the task bar and choose it or you can open the search charm and type it in there.


Now find the wireless connection at the top and click on the blue link:


A new dialog will pop up and here you’ll see there is a Diagnose button. Go ahead and click on that and let Windows try to fix it for you.


The next thing you can try is to restart in Safe Mode, Network Enabled and try to turn on the Wireless there. For some reason on certain computers, the option is not greyed out in safe mode, so you might be able to enable it there and then restart in normally. Read my previous post on how to boot Windows 8 into safe mode.

The other thing you can try is to disable and then re-enable the wireless network adapter. Again, open Network and Sharing Center and then click on the Change adapter settings link at the left. You can see it in the second screenshot above this paragraph.


Right-click on the wireless network adapter (not the Ethernet one like shown above) and then click on Disable. Once it’s disabled, go ahead and right-click again and then choose Enable. Now try to go to Wireless in PC Settings again and see if you can enable WiFi.

If this doesn’t work, again drop down to the last section which has more WiFi troubleshooting tips.
WiFi Not Connecting from Sleep or Hibernation

If your Windows 8 machine is disconnecting from the wireless network whenever you return from sleep or hibernation or any other standby state, then your problem is probably with a power-saving option set on the network card. To fix this, you need to open the search charm and type in Power Options.

Here, click on the selected plan and then click on Change plan settings.


Then click on the Change advanced power settings link.


Now scroll down to Wireless Adapter Settings and make sure the Power Saving Mode is set to Maximum Performance.

Other Troubleshooting Tips
Check Network Card at Compatibility Center

You can check to see if your wireless network card is compatible with Windows 8 by visiting the Capability Center. Go ahead and type in the name of your wireless card and you should get a little report like this:


It’ll have a little blue logo if it is compatible or not. You can also check Windows RT in addition to just Windows 8. So this is a nice site to check out if you are having issues with your WiFi network, especially if it’s not showing up at all in Windows 8 or it’s got a yellow exclamation sign in Device Manager.
Check Network Adapter Settings

Open Network and Sharing Center, click on Change adapter settings and then right-click on then wireless network adapter and choose Properties.


Now scroll down in the list box until you see Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4) and then click on the Properties button.


Finally, make sure the Obtain an IP address automatically and Obtain DNS server address automatically radio buttons are selected.

Check Wireless Switch

On most laptops, there is a wireless switch or button that can be toggled from on to off. Make sure you have that button set to On or press FN + F8 to enable the wireless card. The switch can be anywhere (sides, front, back, etc), but there is usually an indicator light so you can tell when it’s on.
Uninstall in Device Manager

Another quick tip is to go to Device Manager, right-click on your wireless network card and choose Uninstall. Then reboot your computer and it was automatically be detected and reinstalled. If it’s still not working after trying this, then read the next tip, which is updating the driver.
Update BIOS & Drivers

As always, it’s a good idea to download and install the latest drivers for your network card. This is especially important if you’re running Windows 8. However, if you upgraded a computer from Windows XP or Windows 7 to Windows 8 and you tried everything above and updated the driver, then updating the BIOS might be worth it. 99% of the time updating the BIOS is just fine, but there are occasions when it fails and then leaves you with a computer you can’t boot. Only try this as a last resort and make a backup of your computer first just in case.

Reset the Router

If you’re getting the Limited Connectivity message, then you can try resetting the router. You can either restart it by just unplugging it, waiting about a minute and then plugging it back in. If that doesn’t work and you’ve tried all the stuff above, go ahead and reset your router. This will reset it to the default settings and will wipe out any security or configuration you had done earlier, so be careful and be ready to do that all again. It’s a last resort measure, but it could fix your problem.

If you have something like AVG Internet Security or Avast or similar software installed on your PC or tablet, then go ahead and uninstall that program and see if your Internet connection starts to work. Many times Internet Security software has been the culprit and you could be pulling your hair out trying to figure out what’s causing the issue, so it’s worth trying.

So that’s a lot of stuff to try and practically every sane thing you can try. If none of this worked, then you could possibly have a hardware problem with your wireless card. If you have questions, feel free to post a comment. Enjoy!

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